The Largest Town in the Country-
 Fishing and Conservation in Pittsburg, NH
By Brian Hiller

Every once in a while, if you’re lucky, you will visit a really captivating place that makes you long to return.  Most likely it comes as a result the landscape, the atmosphere, and the experiences you bring home.  I have a few such places scattered here and there, and was I fortunate enough to add another last October, when I spent a weekend in Pittsburg, New Hampshire.  This is an area with not only fascinating human history, but also stunning landscape, wonderful wildlife diversity, and of course, fantastic fishing opportunities.

The next time you look at a map of New England, trace your way up the Connecticut River Valley until you come to the northern border between Vermont and Canada.  Where the river takes a right and keeps heading north is the southern boundary of the town of Pittsburg, New Hampshire.  The town, which occupies nearly 300 square miles of the northern portion of the state, holds the honor of being the largest town by area in the lower 48 states, and quite possibly in the entire United States (including Alaska).  Flowing through this area are dozens of rivers and streams with plenty of trout and tremendous public access, such as the state access point at Amey Farm along Route 3, south of town. 

The main attractions in this region are the sections of the Connecticut River headwaters, both where it connects the Connecticut chain of four lakes and again below Lake Francis where it begins its journey to Long Island Sound.  In addition to the moving water and the big lakes, there are a couple dozen smaller ponds and an untold number of beaver stoppages that pockmark the landscape. 

As you head north out of town on Route 3, you will see a sign that pretty much sums up how wild and unspoiled this area really is: “Brake for Moose – It could save your life.”  The real attention-grabber, however, is the little brown sign underneath: “Hundreds of collisions!”  There are so many moose in the area that one stretch of road is actually called “Moose Alley,” and every evening curious visitors drive slowly up and down the alley in search of its notorious residents.  This is a great place to introduce children to these impressive animals from the relative safety of your car – after the fishing has fallen off for the night, of course!

During my visit last October, I was fortunate enough to some time with guide Jon Howe from Tall Timbers Lodge.  Although the weather was less than ideal (a heavy cold front rushed through the night before we fished), Jon still managed to put me into several fish due to his extensive knowledge of the river and his willingness to move and change things up when the action slowed.  Our final location of the morning was the confluence of the Connecticut River and what is generally considered its first major tributary, Indian Stream.  The sun, which had been off and on until this point, decided to remain “on” for a while, shining upon us some greatly appreciated warming rays.  The insects also turned out in this final pool; some caddis and blue-winged olives emerged, followed by a few sporadically rising trout.  Unfortunately, these trout were even less cooperative than their upstream brethren, and we passed the next hour plying the runs and deep pools in vain.

The downtime provided Jon with the opportunity to delve into the history of the region.  Back in 1832, the people of the area grew tired of the ongoing border dispute between the United States and Canada and declared their own independent country, the Republic of Indian Stream.  They drew up a constitution, formed their own government (and militia), then operated as a separate country for three years until they agreed to rejoin the U.S. 

It was also during this lull in action that Jon called my attention to the property along the east bank of the river where we were fishing.  My visit to Pittsburg had been prompted by news of an ongoing effort by the Society for the Protection of New Hampshire Forests (Forest Society) to purchase the entire east bank of the river for the first five miles downstream of the town, and now I had the chance to visualize the property.  I asked Jon what he thought about the possibility that the property might be developed, and he said it was possibly the worst-case scenario for the aesthetics of the river he fishes so often.  He also was skeptical of the impacts of developing so many blocks, not just in the short term but also in its long-term post-development effects, especially on such a steep hillside where zoning laws are nearly non-existent.

Jon pointed to a small field overlooking the pool we had just left and asked how I would feel if there were a few condominiums or houses sitting on that block.  I told him I would probably prefer to fish elsewhere if that were the case, and he suggested that such a development would effectively eliminate the attractiveness of much of the first five miles of the Upper Connecticut River – where he makes his living.  His sentiments on the property echoed those of everyone else I spoke with in town, some of whom feared becoming the next Lake Winnipesauke with its haphazard building arrangements and clutter.  Everyone had a positive impression of the Forest Society based on its past experiences in the area, and they were eager to see the land saved by an institution that would allow public access for most activities, especially hunting and fishing.

As if the prospect of developing this 2,100-acre parcel weren’t enough of a threat to the Upper Connecticut River, a second problem has recently arrived to compound the issue.  While we fished, we also noticed that didymo had really taken hold in the slower water out of the main current in this pool.  Jon mentioned that he had fished this same pool in July and found very little didymo – a stark contrast to the thick, spongy mat that now covers the bottom to a depth of a few inches in some places.  The impacts of this invasive species have yet to be fully understood, but the potential for further spreading is real. It’s critical that fishermen take any and all precautions they can to help prevent it from moving into the sections of the river above the lakes. 

Although Jon and I had to part company, he suggested several other worthwhile locations both below Lake Francis and in the “Trophy Section” leading upstream to First Connecticut Lake. He also suggested some flies that brought him success in the past. 

When I fished several pieces of this water the next day, I found salmon that were stacked along the slow inside bends and deep at the tail-end of large pools. They were receptive to small minnow patterns and weighted nymphs.  In addition, large brook trout are stocked by the state following spawning in hatcheries, and according to conversations with other anglers, these fish can range up to 4 pounds.  I hooked up with a few brookies in the 14-inch class and missed a couple of strikes by slightly larger browns and rainbows. 
All the species were quite active despite the second cold front that swept through the region during the night on Saturday, bringing with it a steady downpour.  I was fishing the last weekend of the season, and although I think there were more fishermen than usual, I never felt crowded.  There was more than enough room for everyone, but if utter solitude was desired, it could be found on any number of smaller tributaries in the area, such as Perry Stream, and in any of the ponds.

Unfortunately, my first landlocked salmon eluded me on this trip, but it’s a perfect excuse to make my way back to the top of New Hampshire sometime soon.  There are so many bodies of water that I suspect I will have to spend more than just a weekend exploring and fishing my way around the area. Perhaps I’ll convince the entire family to come up with me and make a week of it!  It would be a great place to show them their first moose or bear, or hopefully a salmon…

If you are interested in learning more about the ongoing effort to preserve the east bank of the Upper Connecticut River and ways that you can help, contact Susanne Kibler-Hacker, vice-president of development, at (603) 224-9945 or skh@forestsociety.org, or check out their website at www.spnhf.org/default.asp
           

• For more information about visiting the Great North Woods around Pittsburg, check visit www.nhconnlakes.com
  
  
• There is an excellent variety of dining choices in the area. These include CJ’s Deli, owned and operated by Corey Schmidt in the Pittsburg Trading Post, who makes a mean Philly cheesesteak; the Buck Rub Pub, which has typically pub fare and a lively atmosphere; and the Rainbow Grille, which has truly fine dining and may require a reservation on the weekend.
  
  
• Jon Howe is a wonderfully knowledgeable guide and a true pleasure to fish with; I highly recommend spending a day with him if you’re in the area.  Jon can be reached through Tall Timber Lodge at (800) 835-6343 or by email at jhowe@ncia.net.
  
  
• Lisa and Tim Savard own and manage The Cabins at Lopstick, are located a couple of miles from the “Trophy Section” of the Upper Connecticut River. They have a great deal of knowledge of the area and guide for both fishing and bird hunting in the fall; reach them at (800) 538-6659.
  
  
• The Lake Francis State Campground website (www.nhstateparks.com/francis.html) has additional information for prospective campers.