by John A. Bevilacqua

When summer’s heat and humidity arrive, combined with salty ocean breezes and picturesque sunsets over our waterways, it doesn’t only signal that it’s time to get the fishing gear ready. It also tells us that it’s time to prepare for another rite of summer, the outdoor barbeque.

This year, instead of grilling the typical Fourth of July fare of hot dogs and hamburgers, why not revisit a long-forgotten family tradition – the fish fry. For young and old, playing a role in this fishing-themed get-together, whether it is catching the fish, cooking the catch or just enjoying the good eats, will make for fishing and family memories that last a lifetime.

Fish Fry Memories

Well over 30 years ago, I traveled with my mother to visit her sister, my Auntie Grace, in Florida. She, my uncle, and my two cousins, Danny and Michael (both of similar age to me), lived in Pembroke Pines at the time.

There, across the street from their average-size starter home, was a lake filled with the typical warm-water species found in the South – largemouth bass, peacock bass and assorted panfish. Being a courageous man, my Uncle Dan brought us there to fish. We caught many fish that day, and we brought some back to show off to our mothers. Being a crafty young woman back then and still so to this day, my aunt made the most out of the simple catch and consequently gave the great command for Uncle Dan to get crackin’ on a family fish fry. She announced that such a feast must be had to celebrate the fine efforts of the boys and their spectacular catch.

The details of the evening’s gathering are not quite as clear to me, but the fondness of the memory remains. It’s funny to think that even after all the fishing trips I’ve made and all the sleepless nights I’ve spent with butterflies in my belly, anticipating what the morning’s journey would bring, the feelings that arouse when I recall that first fish fry stand out clear and distinct above the rest. The memory of that particular outing is held so close and dear to my heart that I have carried it with me for a lifetime. To see aunts, uncles, and friends of our family enjoying what we caught was the most incredibly satisfying feeling, and to think that our catch was worthy of such a big deal was absolutely amazing.

I recently recounted this memory to a friend at work, and she recollected similar fish fries with her family. She went on to say that after catching perch in a pond next to her summer residence on Cape Cod, her grandmother would prepare the catch each time for her, her brothers, and others in her family for breakfast. In her mind, a series of distinct, pleasant memories brought her back to the calm of her childhood. What more could you ask for when it comes to creating quality memories with your family?

Catching The Main Course

The average summer or Fourth of July picnic in my family is a grand endeavor. Typically these functions will be attended by some 30 very enthusiastic, ready-to-eat, ready-to-party people. To give them a real taste of the fishing lifestyle that I hold so dear to my heart, I always try to replace the dogs and burgers with some of the finest fresh seafood the Northeast has to offer.

Given the limitations of preparing a meal outdoors and the number of diners, I prefer to come prepared with an abundance of white-fleshed, easy-to-prepare fish. I also plan to use fish that can be caught reliably in good numbers so my guests don’t go hungry. Fluke, bluefish, snapper blues, black sea bass, striped bass and scup, or even freshwater perch and crappie, lend themselves perfectly to a family fish fry. Clams, blue crabs mussels and steamers are also available in the summer months and can be gathered in sufficient quantity to serve a large party. Just make sure you have the proper shellfishing permits, of course.

One of the most important elements of the fish fry is the celebration of the catch. Share the pleasure of taking pride in providing a meal from the sea with all; adults and children of all ages can participate, and different items can be caught or gathered by different age groups. Older children can go fishing for fluke, stripers or blues, while younger children with less patience can fish for scup, sea bass, snapper blues or freshwater panfish like perch and crappie. The more family members and friends you can include, the more memories you’ll make.

Throughout my fishing career, I have attended many a fry, and some of the best were thrown by young men and women in their early twenties. Often family and friends of all ages were invited to celebrate the catches of the party throwers, and it was often clear that one of the main reasons for the celebration was to show off the fishing prowess of the young men in what could only be described as a form of courtship display. I’m thinking this sort of thing may have its roots set back as far as the days of hunting and gathering.

Cooking In Quantity

To serve the masses, deep-frying your catch is the best route. The first step will involve taking a propane cooker and a large, 12- to 32-quart stockpot outside and setting them up. Add the appropriate amount of vegetable oil for the size of your pot, and heat the oil to at least 350 degrees. Be certain to keep young children clear of the cooking area and use extreme caution around the cooker. When selecting a place to cook, find somewhere free of dried leaves and grass.

White-fleshed fish, such as fluke, scup, cod, black sea bass and freshwater panfish, work best when deep-frying. Fillet the fish and wash the fillets. Cut large fillets into smaller finger-food-sized portions so the fish cooks quickly and is easy to share among guests.

Before tossing the fish into the oil, you’ll need to toss it in some breadcrumbs or batter. This is where much of the flavor will come from, and you can be as simple or as complex with the breading as you’d like. Simply dipping the fillets in milk and then coating them in cornmeal is a favorite at fish fries in the southern states. Seasoned flour or panko (Japanese breadcrumbs) are also options. If you prefer a wet batter, you can use a number of tasty store-bought mixes, or you can create your own.

Create an assembly line, using large bowls for the wet and dry ingredients, and deep-fry the fillets in batches, making sure to lower the pieces carefully into the hot oil to avoid splashing the scorching oil on yourself or someone else. Don’t overload the fryer or the temperature of the oil will fall too low.

When the fish are done and looking a delicious golden brown, remove them with tongs or a long-handled steel strainer and place them on a brown paper bag in a cardboard box lined with paper towels to drain.

Deep-frying is not your only option. Oily fish, such as bluefish, are better suited to grilling, and can be delicious when seasoned with a Cajun spice mix and a squeeze of lemon. Other fish can be grilled as well. Try using a seafood grate to prevent the fillets from flaking and falling into the grill. Another option is to make foil packets, which can be assembled ahead of time, making them perfect for feeding large groups. Place a thin slice of onion on a piece of heavy-duty tinfoil. Place a single serving of fish on top, give it a drizzle of olive oil or a pat of butter, sprinkle on salt and pepper or the seasoning of your choice, and fold
the foil over, sealing the edges to make a self-contained packet.

Assemble a number of these packets while you wait for the coals to burn down, and then place them on the grill over medium heat. Delicate fillets of fish such as fluke are particularly well suited to this method. The fish will steam in the packet, creating a moist, delicious and healthy meal.

If you have large fillets from a striped bass, kabobs are another option. Cut the fish into cubes and thread the pieces onto skewers with cherry tomatoes and pieces of red onion as spacers. Season with bottled Italian dressing and grill until the fish is cooked through. Again, these skewers can be assembled ahead of time for easy on-site grilling. For a sweet and spicy variation, substitute pineapple chunks for the cherry tomatoes and marinate the kabobs for at least an hour in a whisked mixture of tequila, olive oil, a pinch of red pepper flakes, a few dashes of hot sauce and plenty of lime juice.

Accompaniments and Appetizers

Corn on the cob is just about a requirement for any summer barbeque, fish fry or not. Recruit a team to shuck the corn, boil until just tender, and serve with lots of butter. Sweet summer corn will compliment the fish nicely. Coleslaw is another favorite that will actually taste better if allowed to sit in the refrigerator for a night, and of course, no fish fry would do without hand-cut, deep-fried French fries.

Some seafood-based appetizers are another way to allow your family and friends to sample more of the ocean’s bounty. How fancy you get with the appetizers depends largely on how much effort you want to put in and what local species are available.

Clams can be a welcome addition to the menu. Clams are by far the most enjoyable, finest tasting seafood to gather and eat in this author’s eyes. To my knowledge, there is no other saltwater food source that is so easily accessible and versatile.

Head out to your favorite digging grounds a day or two in advance of the big bash, with tongs, forks or rakes in hand, and possibly several helpers to increase your catch. Once you’ ve gathered the savory merchandise, wash their shells carefully and start filling a cooler with ice and some of your hand-dug littlenecks or cherrystones. Keep the cooler free of excess water by draining regularly and adding ice as needed. Save some of the smaller and medium clams and make a few trays of clams casino to carry through the crowd. Prepare the largest of the cull by stuffing them to serve with your main course.

Another favorite summertime shellfish is the blue crab. Spending a day gathering a mess of these delectable crustaceans can add a great course to your feast. Shaping small appetizer-size crab cakes will make the most out of the little meat found in those feisty critters, and allow more guests to get a taste of your terrific creations. Serve with a simple mayonnaise- or mustard-based dipping sauce and you’ll have the guests begging for the secret recipes.

With some good fishing and a little work, you can create some terrific memories for yourself, your family and your friends that go beyond just catching fish. There’s no better time to revive the tradition of the outdoor fish fry than the months between Independence Day and Labor Day, since the weather will be at its best for both outdoor festivities and fishing. Enjoy!